#2 The Planes, The Parents and The Pearl

We had started dating in January 2008, we didn’t see each other a lot at first, but as the months went by we became a bit closer. For me the invite to Poland was a kind of turning point in our relationship, things became serious. I’m not sure exactly what I expected from my first trip, I had a thought lingering at the back of my head that was of big block faded buildings, grey skies, smog and people walking in public, heads down with serious expressions. Not the most flattering of perceptions and not sure where it came from, but it was what it was.

We flew out mid morning early in November on the Easyjet flight from Liverpool to Kraków (2.5hr, not bad). I like Liverpool Airport it’s quick and easy to get through, good shops and nice convenient places to eat and drink.

Getting to Kraków

The quickest, easiest and most convenient way to get to Kraków from the UK, is by using a budget airline from a regional airport. To make a booking it is by downloading the app of your airline of your choice. I have Easyjet, Ryanair, Jet2 and Wizzair on my phone. Once you have registered you can make a booking and check-in, in under 5 minutes, seriously. The majority of airports now accept the boarding card on your phone. No paperwork……. It’s just so easy.

Prices vary, depending on when you book, if you want to have hold luggage and what kind of seat you like to sit in. A word of caution, quite often adding suitcases is often more expensive than the flight itself

 Flights to Kraków

This list isn’t designed to be exhaustive, just to give you a good idea

 We landed early afternoon and it was dull and grey (just to uphold my perception). What I found out when we landed, is that Kraków Airport (also know as Balice,) is still an operational military airport, I find it quite interesting to look upon the different military aircraft on display as the plane taxis into place. Occasionally you see military personnel completing drills.

It’s important to say that since our first visit, this airport has had a massive upgrade, and the link by rail to the city center is excellent. To access the station, simply follow the signs through the multi storey car park opposite. These trains are really modern, and it is a very cheap way to get to the city.

It took us about 20 minutes, Kraków Główny. The best way to describe the main station is worn, it didn’t look like it had, had some TLC for a long while. We ordered our tickets at one of the run down kiosks in the subway area and paid by debit card… or at least we tried. They didn’t accept any form of card payment, this led to Ania having a bit of a rant, moaning about it being the 21st century. We had to go to the adjacent shopping centre which lead to us missing the first train, the one that we would now have to catch would end up stopping at every single station. Like the airport, the main train station as been upgraded in recent years, and I would argue it is now one of the best in Europe.

From the main station in Kraków we boarded a train to Tarnów. If I remember rightly the train we travelled on was a refurbished British Rail train, it’s was a little rickety, but because it was old, it was also big. The Journey was about 2 hours (there are quicker routes). It was dark when we came off the train….

We were met on the platform by Pan Fiedor (Mr Fiedor, Ania’s dad), I stood a little back whilst they embraced after not seeing each other for a few months, I was greeted with a curt but polite hand shake and a “Cześć, Craig”, I had been preparing myself for the last couple of hours on a really good introduction that would have translated to, “Good day, My name is Craig, it’s is very nice to meet you. How are you?” I buckled spectacularly!!! I’m not sure if it was confidence saying something in a language I had only used a little before or meeting Pan Fiedor for the first time, anyway I was really annoyed with myself…..

We stepped out onto a deserted road outside the train station, I remember thinking  like I had just arrived in the Wild West, I think it was the light fog, that had just descended coupled with a unique and quaint style of the buildings. We jumped into his old but reliable  Suzuki Swift and headed across the city to their flat. I don’t remember much of that journey, I had began to quake in my boots… next up was Ania’s Mum. I had a renewed determination to say something good…… I did a little better managing a clear “Dzień Dobry” in return I received a polite hug and a measured look straight in the eye’s.

They lived on the 3rd floor of a huge block of flats. What stood out to me was the massive water storage/ pressure tower that was adjacent, I remember thinking it looked quite cool and very much like a flying saucer. The flat was quite compact and everything branched off from the main hallway, two bedrooms, living room, kitchen, toilet and bathroom. This was typical of the type of housing built in post war communist Poland.

We were assigned separate rooms, A great deal of Polish families have traditional Catholic values (which wasn’t a problem), and they decided to sleep in the living room. My room doubled up as a computer room and the bed was a sofa bed. These types of beds are very popular in Poland, in particular in family houses with not a lot of space.

At the time both Ania’s parents were still working, they had worked for the same railway company all their lives, that’s how they met, her dad was a train driver and her mum who worked in the office but over time had climbed the ladder to be the operations manager for that region.

I have one word to describe Pani Fiedor, (Mrs) which is “formidable.” I made this judgment immediately, make no mistake I mean it as a big compliment. I think to do what she did, in the very male dominated rail industry, is remarkable. Strong headed, knows what she wants and says what she thinks. This was the one that I needed to win over……….

For our arrival they had made pancakes (I LOVE PANCAKES), topped with a fruit yoghurt. For your information there are four foods that I do not like, they are cheese, peas, tomato and YOGHURT!!! Anyway, I lost all my nerves, my energy was focused on keeping a straight face as I ate with delight this amazing welcome treat.

Tarnów

I think its important to finish this post by quashing my perception of what I thought Poland would look like. It is an amazingly beautiful country from so many different aspects and if you join me on my journey I will show this to you. During this first trip we spent a little bit of time in Ania’s home city, either meeting friends or just wondering around. In most towns or cities the market square is a true centre piece, and Tarnów is no exception, it is absolutely stunning and is a throw back to the rule of the imperial monarchy times. Unlike some, this market square is completely pedestrianised. On the road that we took to the market square we passed the John Paul II Cathedral, it isn’t as grand as some of the churches in Poland, but for me the beauty of this one is in its simplicity.

The square itself is one of the best preserved medieval squares in Europe, in the centre is the “Ratusz” or Town hall. These are quite a common feature in many cities, but lots of them are now converted for other uses. This one now forms an extension to the museum of Tarnów. Muzeum.tarnow.pl. Well worth a visit if you’re in the area. The buildings on the outside are of a Renaissance style (in fact many historians refer to Tarnów as the “pearl of the Renaissance”), and are today occupied by museums, restaurants, bars and other commercial businesses. In the summer, the restaurants extend into the square and there is no better place to relax and enjoy a Piwo (lager) or two with friends. It is quite common for events and concerts to be held here.

The City also has a huge connection with Jewish modern history both impressive and devastating. I can’t do this justice in the few lines I have in this post, but I feel that we will inevitably come back to it in the future.

Fun facts

• Tarnów is known as the warmest place in Poland. Highest average temperature throughout the year, the least rainfall and the most days without any clouds.
• Speedway Unia Tarnów founded in 1928 have revelled in success in the last decade or so, having won the Polish championship in 2005, 2006 and 2013.

For me the best place to go to find out about this wonderful city is www.it.tarnow.pl. Enjoy some of our photo’s at the bottom!!!

That’s it for this time, but join me next time on my journey when I will continue my first trip to Poland. We will spend some time with Babcia (grandma, you really don’t want to miss it) and visit one of my favourite place’s in the whole of Poland, the little known village of Łomnica Zdrój.

Do Zobaczenia

Malenki